My meeting with the Himba people

After exploring Namibia’s desert landscapes, the riverside location of Serra Cafema felt like a breath of fresh air. It was filled with life – birdsong, the sounds of nearby rapids, and the laughter and singing of friendly staff. One word came to mind: paradise.

For our first activity, Clement suggested a boat cruise on the Kunene. What a great idea! The cooler bag was packed with our favourite drinks, and off we went. The Kunene River forms the border between Namibia and Angola, and we enjoyed spectacular views of both countries on either side, with mountains, palm trees, small patches of maize, and local children tending to their goats. It truly felt like this place was unspoiled, and untouched by Western civilisation.

While cruising on the Kunene, we encountered a few Nile crocodiles lazily basking in the sun, witnessed spectacular sunset views, and enjoyed countless photographic opportunities. We also spotted a goliath heron on the lookout for its afternoon snack, gracefully taking flight and gliding over the glistening waters. What could be better than this? We struggled to find a word to describe our experience…eventually “sacred” felt most fitting.

Clement anchored the boat on a sandbank and set up a table with drinks and snacks, while we kicked off our shoes and let our toes sink into the sand. This will be one of my favourite travel memories – sundowners next to the Kunene River with a spectacular sunset, perfectly framed by the mountainous landscapes of two countries.

Before dinner, Clement prepared us for the adventure that awaited us the following day: our first encounter with the Himba people. He had already informed the village of our visit, so they were ready to welcome us.

The following morning, after breakfast, we enjoyed a scenic drive to the village and a warm welcome from community member Karime. Karime’s late mother Vengipo led Wilderness’ long-standing relationship with this particular village, a role which has now been taken over by Karime. Clement, who had worked at Serra Cafema years ago, watched many of the villagers grow up and even learned to speak OtjiHimba himself. The language was entirely unfamiliar to us, and it was fascinating to hear him interact with the children and women of the village. The children were the first to rush to our vehicle, eager to greet us. Clement went ahead to request that the Himba women prepare for this unique cultural experience.

As we entered the village, we greeted each of the women with a handshake and learned their names. They then invited us, one by one, to sit with them while they painted our faces with ochre, a natural clay pigment. I asked Clement if they used it for sun protection; to which he chuckled and replied, “And for beauty, of course”. Once the women finished beautifying me, they watched as I gently blended the ochre dots on my face.

The second part of the experience included a visit in one of the huts, made from a framework of branches and plastered with mud and dung. We carefully entered the hut and sat down with Karime, who had already prepared their traditional smoke bath by putting smouldering charcoal into a bowl of herbs, mostly consisting of leaves and small branches from Commiphora (myrrh) trees. After experiencing this tradition, we headed out of the hut and got ready for a bit of retail therapy. 

The women and children displayed their beautiful jewellery on colourful blankets. We all ended up purchasing either a necklace or bracelet – or both – and wore them proudly for the rest of our journey. The Himba people use the money to buy essentials like grain or blankets. Later that evening, we gathered for a boma dinner and had many questions for Clement about our experience with the Himba community.

Reflecting on this unforgettable journey to Namibia, I realise that the experiences we shared with the Himba people have left an indelible mark on my heart. From the breathtaking aerial views of their villages, to the warmth of their welcome, every moment was a reminder of the beauty of cultural exchange. The serene landscapes of Serra Cafema and the joy of boating on the Kunene River enriched our adventure, making it not just a trip, but a transformative experience. 

The connections we made and the stories we heard have stayed with us long after we returned home. As we shared our insights over dinner, it became clear that such encounters inspire a deeper appreciation for the diverse tapestry of humanity. Namibia, with its stunning vistas and vibrant cultures, has truly opened my eyes to the wonders of the world.