5 Best Wilderness Camps to see Hyenas

The spotted hyena is characterised by its well-developed front legs, and has a powerful neck and jaws with underdeveloped hindquarters, resulting in its characteristic sloping back. Their coats are a sandy grey with distinguishing black/dark brown spots, hence the name. They are extremely sociable animals which live in clans that can vary from a few individuals to over a hundred. They have communal dens and operate in a matriarchal system, led by noticeably bigger females. 

Often viewed as just scavengers, spotted hyenas are actually excellent hunters. They are highly intelligent, powerful animals, and although not particularly fast, have a well-developed thoracic cavity that gives them the stamina to run down certain prey. They are worthy adversaries for the likes of lions and leopards, and will use their strength in numbers to try to outcompete their rivals.

By contrast, the brown hyena is more secretive than its cousin, and is a solitary scavenger. They are smaller, with a distinctive shaggy brown coat, striped legs, and no notable size difference between the males and females. Although they are mostly seen foraging alone, brown hyenas are also very sociable and live in clans that can vary from a few individuals to more than 10. 

According to the IUCN Red List, there are approximately 4,000 to 10,000 brown hyenas left, resulting in their species being classified as Near Threatened (NT). As a result, they are the rarest within the hyena family, and due to being nocturnal (foraging at night), seeing them on safari is a unique privilege.

All in all, hyenas are fascinating animals. Whether you are witnessing their complex social interactions at the foot of your vehicle or hearing their iconic vocalisations rippling through the African night from camp, you are bound to be entertained as well as educated. Here is a selection of the 5 best Wilderness camps to see them:

Located just off the northern tip of Chief’s Island, the largest landmass in the Okavango, Mombo is considered the most fertile area in the Delta, with its mix of habitats attracting large herds followed by numbers and varieties of predators. 

Known as the Place of Plenty, Wilderness Mombo attracts huge concentrations of zebra, and massive herds of buffalo, all drawn to the nutrient-rich vegetation and reliable water sources. Big game like this attracts large clans of spotted hyena, with these predators all but “falling out of the trees”, an expression we do not use lightly, but one eminently suitable for this legendary camp.

Situated on a beautiful old tree-island in a prime wilderness locale in the south-east of the Okavango Delta, Wilderness Chitabe is built on elevated decks that provide superb views across an expansive floodplain. Thanks to its mosaic of habitats, a plethora of plains game is seen on day and night drives, as well as guided walks.

The variation in habitat (and hence variation in game) at Wilderness Chitabe is due to the camp being located on the edge of the Okavango Delta, resulting in a mixture of savanna, Kalahari, and wetland systems. The prey diversity here makes for a predator’s paradise, with spotted hyena thriving. Join us at Wilderness Chitabe to witness them in action as they go about their daily lives competing with other predators in this phenomenal wildlife area. 

Arguably the most luxurious camp in Hwange National Park, Wilderness Linkwasha lies in a private concession in the enormously productive south-eastern corner of the park. Situated on the edge of the famed Ngamo Plains – where wildlife gathers in uncountable numbers during summer, to add to the year-round excellent viewing from the camp itself – Wilderness Linkwasha overlooks a pan that is a magnet for animals seeking to quench their thirst, especially in the dry winter months.

With Hwange National Park being famed for its wildlife density, predators like the spotted hyena thrive here. With no running rivers, the winters prove tough for the grazers, but provide many an opportunity for the hyena. Additionally, during the summer, the blue wildebeest herds shift to the extremely productive Ngamo Plains for calving season. With dozens of newborn and vulnerable wildebeest calves in such a concentrated area, predators like the hyena are seen often here. 

The name “Skeleton Coast” conjures up romantic images of desolate beauty, and Wilderness Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp in Namibia’s Kaokoveld does not disappoint. The dry riverbed of the Hoanib River supports a thin green ribbon of vegetation, and the wild beaches of the Atlantic coast are within driving reach, with their noisy seal colonies and eerily quiet shipwreck remnants. Eight large en-suite tents (including one family unit) and the main area provide shady viewpoints, while nature drives into the surrounding area reveal a wealth of desert-adapted wildlife, including thrilling lion, as well as brown hyena, which may be glimpsed in this sparse – but far from lifeless – landscape.

By joining us at Wilderness Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp you have a unique opportunity to learn more about the secretive brown hyena. On Namibia’s Skeleton Coast, they are known as the strandwolf, meaning beach wolf in Afrikaans, as they have a habit of combing the shoreline for dead seals and other carrion left by the sea. To see them potentially in action is a privilege, and knowing that your stay with us contributes to the conservation of these fascinating animals only adds to the experience.

Wilderness is thrilled to be supporting Researcher Manager Emsie Verwey and her Skeleton Coast Brown Hyena Project, as she undertakes the first official density survey for brown hyena in Namibia’s Skeleton Coast National Park, in collaboration with the country’s Ministry of Environment and Tourism. Wilderness has sponsored the funds required to purchase camera traps, memory cards and batteries for this vital conservation survey in one of the world’s harshest – and most beautiful – wilderness environments.

(Emsie is based at Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp and is often available to interact with guests. Visiting researchers are also available for questions and more information on their research when in camp.) Learn more here about Emsie and her insights into brown hyena.

Kulala Desert Lodge is situated at the foot of the majestic Sossusvlei dunes and is the closest location to Sossusvlei (via a private gate exclusive to Wilderness vehicles). Scenic nature drives and walks are available; fat-tyre e-bikes are a fun way to explore the spectacular open plains, while a highlight is to experience the area on a hot air balloon safari (at extra cost).

It is here too that one can find the brown hyena. With hyena den sites suspected in the mountains south of camp, a mere 6 km away, one can potentially see brown hyena cubs and adults together in action, an exciting prospect for any safari-goer.